Monday, 29 June 2009

Boo in Kent - The Harrow Inn

One of the things that excites me the most these days about returning to Kent is that I can dine at one of the many brilliant country pubs that the county has to offer.

I used to work at The Harrow Inn, Ightham as a girl and this is the first time I've returned as a proper patron, it was strange being back, I managed to resist the urge to stack the plates and set the table myself, the waitress in her got the better of the Kid however, she used to work there too, and she assisted the lone waiter of the evening in any way she could!

Knowing the ins and outs of a kitchen is obviously beneficial and I had the inside info on what would be the best dishes to order, i'm a firm believer that it's best to order from the specials. Little in terms of decor and dishes has changed in the 3 or so years since I did my last shift here.

So the 4 of us were in for a 3 courser, this vist had been in the planning stage for sometime, dates finally fixed I was invariably very excited and knew I was in for a feast! The starters we chose were smooth duck liver pâté (Crann and myself), goats cheese tart for Kid and marinated sardines for Thomas.


The pâté (which was not on the menu but we asked Eddie, 1 of the chefs, if they had any and lucky for us they did) was delightful, moreish and delicious, served with a cranberry compote and some homemade melba toasts. I was disappointed to see that they no longer serve the rye loaves from the Plaxtol Bakery that used to accompany this order, instead when I asked for bread we were given a rather miserable looking white baguette, advertised as sourdough. That aside, the pâté itself was great, I let Thomas share this with me because his starter was disappointing. There was a slight mix up in that I recall a special of grilled sardines and said were this on the menu, it's a must have.


These sardines were marinated, not grilled and resembled (and tasted like) anchovies, the waiter even said "here's the tomato and anchovy salad" as he delivered it. Hmmm. What's also a little bizarre is that the same salad is served with everything, mixed leaves with chopped up peppers and tomato, it's nice but no thought goes into throwing a little bunch of the the same thing onto every single plate. Thomas thought this starter was not well balanced, the fish having been marinated in vinegar was extremely tart and not offset by any sweetness other than a few splodges of balsamic reduction dotted here and there. It would benefit from another component. Thomas preferred the pâté and Kid's goats cheese.

This starter of a circular disc of goats cheese placed on top of some caramelized red onions in a pastry tart casing is a winner. A classic combination of flavours and textures, again presented with a salad garnish, this is a fragrant starter, goats cheese is not for everyone and Kid is usually not a fan of such strong flavours but all agreed this was a fine choice.


For main course I had the scallops. This was a special and came on a bed of bubble and squeak with a serving of seasonal vegetables, broad and green beans, courgettes and peas. This was the most expensive main course and I thought that it was slightly overpriced at £17.50 for only 5 scallops. They were cooked well, a little over if anything and were classically paired with some parma ham. The bubble and squeak looks a little shiny in this picture, it did not have a typical crispy exterior and was essentially mash with some greenery.


Thomas ordered the rump steak, medium, which is one of the most perfectly executed dishes here. Head chef Dave certainly knows how to make a good steak. This is served with a peppercorn sauce and fries and salad. John Elton (yes, really) owner of the Harrow Inn informed us that his meat supplier had delivered some fine rump steaks to temporarily replace the usual sirloin on the menu here. Thomas very often orders steak and rarely is this satisfied with the way it is cooked.


Kid went for the salmon and chive fishcakes which are large balls of poached salmon and mashed potato. The best thing about this dish is the accompanying citrus sauce which is surprisingly light for a such a creamy and buttery sauce, largely thanks to the lemony flavour.


Again, this main course comes with fries and salad, as does the Cajun chicken which was Cranns main course. This can be spicy or mild, depending on your preference and is pan fried until cooked, this was succulent and juicy.

Happily, we all still had room for desserts. I usually prefer savoury dishes but the one thing I was most looking forward to trying again at The Harrow Inn was their home made orange and ginger tiramisu. Both us girls opted for this and were not disappointed, it was just how I remember. I think my time working here was when I really developed a love for food and returning and eating these dishes was really special.


This is served in fairly small portions due to the richness of it. The layers of crushed ginger biscuits alternated with cointreau infused marscapone, served with more cream and a slice of fresh orange.


Thomas had the creme brulee with raspberries which is a traditional custard dotted with vanilla seeds with some juicy crushed raspberries at the bottom of the ramekin. The crisp caramelised sugar was thick and crunchy. I dislike the sprinkling of icing sugar that comes with each pudding, it adds little, if anything, in terms of flavour and instead of looking thoughtfully decorative, it looks messy.


Crann was pleased with his melting chocolate pudding, served with a generous 2 scoops of vanilla ice cream and some pouring cream. I didn't try this but it looked like it oozed in the right places.

I think the Harrow Inn is definitely worth seeking out if you're in the area, the food is above average and good value for money if eating in the bar area (there's a more formal dining room towards the rear of the building), where side dishes are included with the cost of the main. The majority of customers are locals and regulars or walkers and visitors from the nearby National Trust property Ightham Mote. The Harrow Inn is a Good Pub Guide approved establishment, so many people visit having read this recommendation. It's also worth telling the chaps that the gents toilet is apparently haunted by the ghost of a baker, the building was a bakery a hundred or so years ago. John has some interesting paintings of the building in its former glory on the walls of the bar. The ghost did not make an appearance whilst we were here!

The Harrow Inn
Common Road
Ightham, Kent
8/10

Sunday, 28 June 2009

Boo in Kent - Woods

Returning to Tunbridge Wells a visit to the beautiful Pantiles is a must. There's a wealth of nice places to eat along the strip as well as cute boutiques and a fantastic Kitchen Shop, Trevor Mottram, a must see for any foodie in the area, I could easily while away an afternoon in this place!

I was keen to show off Tunbridge Wells to Thomas, who had not seen where I grew up before this visit and we chose to have lunch at Woods where I have eaten before and loved the food, including a fish pie topped with rosti and a bacon avocado and rocket sandwich. They do classic british dishes very well and have a large outdoor eating are and an upstairs bar area with piano, they regularly host jazz evenings and various events.

We arrived at around 3pm in need of lunch. I had a glass of Chapel Down Downland dry white wine, local wine from Tenterden to accompany my salad of Kent Lamb, Courgette and Halloumi with Rocket Pesto.


This was perhaps the best of the 3 dishes but it was slightly odd. The major elements were all warm, the courgette was nice, well cooked and retaining a bite. The lamb was tasty but a bit tough, not so well cooked, and the halloumi was fine, salty and satisfyingly squeaky as I chewed it yet this didn't really work together. The leaves were well dressed with the rocket pesto and I can't think of one thing that was wrong as such but unfotunately I didn't enjoy this very much.

Thomas tried the Smoked Mackerel with Roasted Beetroot and Horseradish Crème
Fraiche on Toasted Granary bread. This was virtually beetroot with a little bit of mackerel in it.

Thomas was not pleased at all, luckily he had ordered fries as a side, but for someone with a healthy appetite, this simply was not enough. It is from the starter section of the menu so they cannot be blamed for this, really but the purple mass on top of the bread tasted of little but beetroot, it would surely work better if this individual flavours were recognisable and served individually?

The chips were okay, Kid also had a portion of these. I was puzzled as to why they would serve it in such a large bowl, looking like half of them had already been eaten before they made their way to the table. Maybe I was being a grump but this seems silly to me.

Kid had the Woods 'Massive' bacon and egg sandwich, with locally cured bacon (no hint as to where). She was very happy with this, thick cut white bread, a fried egg and a fat slice of bacon, just the type of food Kid likes.


I'm sad that Woods is not how I remember it, I loved it a few years back but I was disappointed with the food on this visit, when I particularly wanted them to deliver because I'd been so complimentary about my previous meals.

I even turned into 'disgusted' of Tunbridge Wells when it began to rain and we made a hasty exit.

Woods
62 Pantiles
Tunbridge Wells
5/10

Smiths of Smithfield

To celebrate my birthday the girls and I had brunch at Smiths of Smithfield. When checking out the menu online I learnt that the restaurant is casually referred to as SOS which immediately took me back to a dingy nightclub in Tonbridge, Kent with the same name, which we regularly frequented as teens. Reminded of these fond, if somewhat hazy, memories we were sold.

I tend to think of owner John Torode (aka Toad) as a bit of a twat but I was hoping that the restaurant which bares his name would deliver food good enough to warrant his position as judge on Masterchef and his general aura of superiority.

We snagged a table for 4 with ease at around 1 on Saturday in the lower level, the first floor being unavailable due to a private function. Fine. At the top of the menu loud and proud is Torode's book Beef: and Other Bovine Matters which handily can be purchased here, signed copies also available on request (cringe).

It was such a sweltering day we asked for iced tap water, this was gladly provided. Service was very efficient, the waitress left us plenty of time to chat before asking if we were ready to order. I went for the macaroni cheese with smoked haddock and a side salad.


I tend to have to avoid macaroni cheese because it's my ultimate favourite comfort food. A few years back I had a phase of cooking it approximately every other day, this got ridiculous and I had to go cold turkey for a while. I always make is in its pure form, no additions, but here the haddock gave it a brilliant smoky flavour with a smattering of small chunks mixed through the pasta. The macaroni itself was smaller than the average, squat tubes about 1cm long. There was a generous amount of melted mozzarella with a grilled tomato for decoration. I was pretty hungover and this stodge was just what I needed to settle my stomach. The side salad of tomato, mixed leaves and red onion was very nicely dressed and in all I was very happy with what I ordered.


The Kid went for a breakfast of toast, fried egg, bacon, sausage, mushrooms and beans. The breakfast is served all day in the downstairs dining room which has a distinct laddy feel, there were lots of groups of guys and the decor of exposed brick and wood lends itself well to chaps looking to lunch or brunch whilst retaining their masculinity! There was a table of 8 guys next to us, all ordered the SOS burger and chips. As did Nibs and Noy.


These were good, served with cheese and tomato relish, supposedly served medium but actually cooked through with no pink meat. The chips were nicely cooked, crunchy and thick and each table has a good selection of condiments and sauces, the appearance of French's mustard swaying Noy's decision to order the burger.

We were all very pleased with what we chose, the service is exemplary and unobtrusive. Most of the menu is simple and comforting, the majority of diners were ordering sandwiches of some variety. It's very good value for money too, my post meal bellini costing more than my entire meal. I would definitely return here and am eager to try out the more formal dining area upstairs. Well done Toad, it seems you do know what you're talking about after all.

Smith of Smithfield
67 Charterhouse St
Farringdon, EC1
7.5/10

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Halloumi and quinoa salad


In the warm summer months I often tend to eat salad at least once a day and it can get a little tiresome. I've been looking to vary the kind of 'salad' I make, less insipid bowls of leafy greens more vibrant, fresh and delicious ways to make the most of seasonal produce. Inspired by a recipe from Olive Magazine's 7 dinners for £35 article, I made a healthy vegetarian salad for dinner last week.

I adore cheese of any kind, and add it to dishes as often as possible. Here the halloumi was pretty much the main event, though I adapted the recipe slightly to include some broad beans that I just couldn't resist buying and they almost stole the show. I had a hugely enjoyable afternoon podding and shelling them in the sun!


What I like best about this recipe is that quinoa (unlike cous cous or bulghar wheat) is really quite flavoursome, even when cooked using just water rather than stock and it's texture is satisfyingly crunchy. It has a distinct nutty note and I will definitely be using it more often from now on. On top of the flavour there are the obvious health benefits, the high protein content ensures its wide use in so called 'superfood' dishes. Here it was dressed with cumin infused oil which gave it a lift and even Thomas (who's not usually a fan of vegetarian dishes) really enjoyed it.

You will need:
150g quinoa
4 tomatoes
olive oil
1/2 red onion, sliced
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
150g halloumi
50g broad beans

Quarter the tomatoes, season and drizzle with olive oil. Oven bake them for about 30 minutes at 200c.

Add 2 tbsp of olive oil, the cumin and red wine vinegar to the sliced onion. Cook the quinoa according to packet instructions, cool then combine with the onion.

Stir in the roasted tomatoes, broad beans, pan fry the halloumi and serve on top of the quinoa.

The roasted tomatoes were rich in flavour and the broad beans were so fresh that I added them raw, the smaller ones were the tastiest. I served this with a yogurt dip, livened up with lemon juice and garlic, and some toasted wholemeal pitta breads. This was a satisfyingly filling meal and I will definitely make it again. I got the halloumi from the supermarket and during the pan frying process it lost a fair bit of liquid, I think better sourcing of this would lift the dish to another level and I shall do better in future.

Tuesday, 23 June 2009

Boo in Kent - The Bohemian

Whilst in Deal Thomas and I were keen to sample some of the foodie delights they have to offer and on the recommendation of Neil (the owner of the B&B) we lunched at The Bohemian opposite the pier. When we arrived and head out back to the pretty terrace area I must admit I was a little underwhelmed by the appearance of the place. It looks much like a generic bar and had it not been recommended to us I would have most likely voted for having a drink and heading off to eat elsewhere.

Things got worse when the ladies on the table next to us received their gluttonous portions of fries topped with cheese, bacon bits and sour cream. I was pleasantly surprised however, by the quality of the food that we ordered. I was still fairly full from breakfast and ordered the Bohemian Greek salad.


This was good, certainly better than it looks in this picture, there was a nice size portion with a generous amount of feta (my favourite) and both green and black olives, the black ones were particularly tasty. This was much better than I had anticipated.

Thomas' selection was also well received, he'd come to the coast hoping to have the opportunity to sample plenty of fresh fish and seafood, here he tried the mackerel.


This was nicely done, served on top of a char grilled slice of thick granary bread, with some roasted cherry tomatoes, leaves of crisp baby gem lettuce and sliced sauteed onion. The fish was tasty and worked well when sampled in combination with all the other ingredients. Thomas' one gripe was that it would have benefited from some form of spread or sauce on the bread which was a tad dry being such a thick slice.

Being on a holiday, of sorts, we opted for a third dish to share, scallops with asparagus and fresh peas which was quite brilliant. The scallops were perfectly cooked, barely touching the heat leaving them perfectly sealed on the outside whilst retaining their delicate and pure flavour and texture in the middle. There's little worse than an overcooked scallop in my opinion and they got these just right.


The asparagus was nicely charred, retaining a bite and the peas were fresh and crunchy, I love summer vegetables and these were great companions for the scallops, it was slightly disappointing that there were only 3, 1 and a half each but what was there was good.

In conclusion I should not judge a book by its cover and should thank my lucky stars that I'm not a cheesy chips kind of gal, well, I say that......

The Bohemian
47 Beach Street
CT14 6HY
6.5/10

Monday, 22 June 2009

Boo in Kent- Number One b&b


I've been back in Kent for the weekend and the trip began with a night at the Number One B&B in Deal. It's by far the finest b&b accommodation I have ever stayed in, I would not hesitate to recommend it and I shall definitely be returning myself to try out their famous weekend deluxe breakfast. Each of the rooms and the communal areas are decorated to a very high standard and our stay there was all the more enjoyable due to the friendliness and capability of the owners. Each bedroom has a coffee maker, large flat screen television and a remarkably comfortable bed, it was a shame that the visit was so fleeting.


For breakfast during the week there is a buffet selection of cereals, fruits, yoghurt, juices as well as a full cooked breakfast. I started with a bowl of fresh berries and some Special K, I know it's naughty but I rarely eat breakfast during the week instead grabbing a coffee on the way to the office. This means that when I do have breakfast I go all out and I was very impressed with both the quality and variety of food on offer here.

The cooked breakfast was lovely, not overly greasy and included all the English breakfast staples, fried egg, bacon, sausage, beans, mushrooms and tomato.


All this was served with your choice of toast and tea or coffee. Everything is well considered and executed and it is clear that these guys know what they're doing and really focus on providing an above average service to their guests. A great price too at £75 for a double room. Such a pity that, yet again, a trip in the UK was scuppered by the ineptitude of the national rail service who abandoned us and about 40 other passengers at Folkestone.

We were made to feel very welcome and comfortable as soon as we eventually arrived and Neil recommended some great local places to grab a drink and a bite to eat. This really is 10/10 accommodation, a wonderful place for a weekend getaway from the city.

Thursday, 18 June 2009

Lord Palmerston 2

For some reason Thomas and I saw fit to return to The Lord Palmerston despite 1) being pretty sure they made us both ill the last time we ate here, 2) the woman behind the bar is rude (I think we have a clash of personalities - she tried to make us order fondue, er, no) and 3) we had some perfectly good tuna steaks at home which we should have had for dinner instead.

So, have they redeemend themselves thanks to this visit? No. In fact, I'd knock off a point or 2 and now rate them a meagre 4 out of 10. I had a smoked chicken salad with beets and orange. Not the fondue thank you very much pushy lady, it might be a special but it's not my fault that you clearly need to flog it. I thought my salad was alright when I began eating but the chicken was quite fatty, there was lots of limp, rather rubbery skin both attached to the meat and floating around of its own accord. There was barely a smidgen of dressing on it and were it not for the orange it would have barely tasted of anything.


It was boring and miserable. I should have gone for the buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad, I can't get enough of this at the moment, but it was only a starter portion. Thomas, as usual, had the steak and chips which was hideously overcooked despite his request to have it cooked medium rare. The chips were the saving grace for me here as they were chunky and dark but Thomas prefers fries so even this could not salvage the dish for him. The roasted tomatoes are a nice touch, again, Thomas seemed unimpressed with them.


It's a shame because their heart's in the right place, some of the meals I've had here and not written up have been very good but the last couple of visits have been a huge let down. I would advise you to not eat here, I shall not be returning, unless I fancy an argument with the staff who took offense when Thomas informed them that his steak was 'just ok.'

Thankfully I'm off home to Kent for the weekend to eat at some much loved and oft returned to reliably good pubs with hopefully more positive things to report upon my return, going to the seaside too, yay!

The Lord Palmerston
33 Dartmouth Park Hill
NW5
4/10

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